Greece and especially Santorini has been on my list of places to visit for many years.  Yet even after the plane tickets and hotel reservations were made and the personal time off was requested, the trip didn’t seem quite real.  I almost expected a last minute change in events would put Greece back on the shelf.  I guess a girl can’t really expect her dreams to come true so easily, right?

What I was hoping was simply to escape the grind of chasing paychecks to go lounge on a beach, soak in scenic vistas and maybe go sightseeing.  What Ashley and I experienced was tenfold more fun and meaningful.  Let this be my lesson to give higher priority to adventures.

My list of most memorable times in no particular order:

• The incredible bravery of Ashley.  Who else but Ashley could navigate a land where maps and streets have no names??  Half lost, we often found signs pointing skyward or very definitively between two roads.  Then there was [<-- Paradise Beach] and [Paradise Beach -->].  Is Pyrgos the same as Pirgos?  How about Oia and Ia?  I can’t decide if we were more confused when there were signs or when there were no signs.  Is it twisted that passing the same bakery for the third time was some reassurance we weren’t completely lost?

  

  

  
  

• The anticipation of exchanging euros for gyyyros.  Not gyros for euros.  Or gyros for dollars.  Thank you, Fotis, for clearing up this tangle for us.

• Meeting the family behind the volcanic flower.  As we set out for the Isles, we would first meet Yiorgos in Santorini (the flower’s designer), Fotis (designer and Yiorgos’s younger brother) and Angela in Mykonos, then Mr. Poniros and Anna in Athens.  It was truly a treat to meet some of the warmest people in the world.  The Poniros workshop and showroom in Athens where these small works of art are first carved in wax, then set and polished gave me a new appreciation for the artistry of jewelry making.  The only possible thing to have made this experience more complete was to meet Mrs. Poniros and Sophocles, the dog Fotis bought for his mom.

  

  

  

  
  

  

  

  

  
  
  

• Meeting a friend’s mom and best friend halfway around the world.  It was truly a pleasure to meet Katy and Panos at the Karapanayiotis family bathing suit shop.  Thank you Vasilis for sending the many warning signals to Panos two young girls from the Far East are coming to visit.  Thank you Panos for completing our Greek itinerary with such excellent company, stories of Vasilis, and the tastiest dinner of hummus, tabouli, camel’s back, mastiha ice cream, and of course gyros!  (I hope Panos was not too disappointed his visitors turned out to be two no-longer-girls from California.)

  

  

  
  

• Being called affectionately geeerls everywhere we went.

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  Being transported straight into Greek mythology.  Atop the ruins of Ancient Thira, as we rounded a crumbling stone wall we encountered who else but Hercules and Athena… and their paparazzi.  Why it was such a surprise I’m still not sure. After all, we were in the land of Greek gods.  My first thought was it was a wedding in costume, but the would-be bride and groom looked puzzled (and a little offended) when I yelled out an enthusiastic Congratulations!

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  Angela who engaged us thoroughly.  And was stunning when she came downstairs to the shop from her upstairs living quarters to join us for dinner.  She also has the most angelic baby girl with a head full of blond curls.

• Hours spent trying on shiny jewels.  For a girl who has made few jewelry purchases, this was the last thing I expected to be doing on vacation.  It must seem ultra silly to any guy reading this blog, but the deep colors and radiant light just cry out to be taken home and loved.

• The sea and sky opening up like a magical dream. Imagine our surprise at 6 am being picked up by an airport shuttle to bump along uneven roads past humble fields and worn down buildings to step hesitantly down into a steep staircase and suddenly discover the glory of the Santorini caldera.  Any sleepiness and doubt vanished in an instant as we first glimpsed the whitewashed cities spilling gracefully over the volcano’s edge into the Mediterranean.

• Dreaming about breakfast every night.  It was everything we could want–hot coffee/tea, fresh squeezed orange juice, Greek yogurt with honey, a pile of fresh kiwi, pineapple, strawberries, nectarines, apples and bananas, and a generous basket of warm pastries–served seaside on a white cloth.  Even if we were ready and fully dressed having a bathrobe on just made breakfast that much more luxurious.  Did I mention it was delivered by a cute boy by the name of Christiano?

• Donkeys.  Climbing stairs.  Ashley screaming.  Being rushed on and off by a curmudgeon handler.

  

  

  

  
  
  

• Discussing Food Network shows and Giada.  That was pretty much our conversation with honeymooners from Atlanta on the catamaran.  Some geeks would say math is the universal language, but these geeks say food is the universal language (just in case that wasn’t evidenced by the abundance of food photography on this blog).

• Zigzagging up a mountain in a Smart car.  It was in disbelief that we arrived near Ancient Thira by tiny, creaky car, then by foot even as hurricane winds threatened to pluck us off at every bend.  If you were to be blown off a mountain would you rather be in a Smart car or free falling?  Ashley would much rather take her chances outside the Smart car.  For me, it would boil down to whether or not I was wearing a flying squirrel outfit, which can be found in many pretty and colorful patterns in Mykonos Town.

  

  

  
  
   

• Pastries for breakfast.  On the ‘Amazing Race: Athens’, our last full day in Greece was spent chasing down patisseries.  In our rush to pack in the Acropolis, the Poniros workshop, Thanasis and Panos, we had a few bites in transit as we rushed over the cobblestones of Ermou Street.  The rest was finished at Athens International the next morning.  I am definitely going to see my dentist after this decadent departure from work and sensibility.

• The joy of free wifi.

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  Giota, practicing English.  Our darling waitress who served a magnifique dinner at Selene shyly professed to practicing her English, but it was already perfect in it’s gentle way.  Dinner tasted better because of her and because of our wild jubilee at finding the restaurant and Pyrgos at all in the dark.  The venue’s new space in Pyrgos in combination with the excellent fare could easily be a celebrated food gem in San Francisco or Los Angeles.

• Santorini tomatoes.  My taste buds did a happy dance when we had these for the first time.

• Chasing the sun. After two cloudy days, it was our last chance to see the legendary Santorini sunset. We nearly missed the event for which we traveled all the way across the globe.

• Wonderful Atina and her sister Melanie.  They are two sisters of four who look after the Atrina Canava traditional houses.  The hotel is a family business started by Atina’s grandfather who was a Santorini native.  It began as two humble caves.  Atina’s father, with the help of an architect, transformed it into the 14 gorgeous and chic caves it is presently.  No detail was overlooked during our stay.  I especially loved the candlelit lanterns placed on the balcony every night and the Korres toiletries.  I could hardly believe the warm efficiency of Atina in answering our many questions and making all arrangements for our trips and meals.  She is an exceptional hostess.

  

  

  

  
  
  

Thank you, Ashley for the vacation of a lifetime! Thank you, Greece and our lovely travel companions who welcomed us, guided us, and enriched us.  You will be remembered dearly for a long time to come. ♥

For future travelers (not travelers to the future) going to Santorini, Mykonos or Athens, the bossy boss in me feels most passionate about doing/seeing/eating the following.

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Santorini

Musts

• Settle In at Atrina Canava 1894 Traditional Houses
  Atina and Melanie are the best hostesses and will help you with everything from meal recommendations and reservations to booking a car or cruise.  The caves are luxurious without being over the top, the view stunning, and breakfasts divine.  It is in a prime location for heading further into Ia or catching a cab to the rest of the island.
• Rent a Car
  Expect to get a little lost, but there’s no better way to explore the island. You don’t need to be aggressive as local drivers will simply pass you if you’re moving at anything less than race track speeds. All you need is a drivers license. The rental company will deliver and pick up the car, but you may have to find a place to park it overnight either in a public or private parking lot. For one day, a basic automatic rental is roughly 45 euros, extra insurance is 10 euros, and gas is another 10 euros.
• Hike to Ancient Thira
  There’s nothing like communing with the gods. Be prepared for a few heart palpitations on the hairpin turns and lack of barriers as you get closer to the top. From time to time you may have to share the road with other cars or a bus. Just try to ignore the sheer drop off the mountain, take a deep breath, say a little prayer, take a swig of mastiha (um, no, don’t drink and drive), rinse and repeat. Who knows you may even meet a few immortals at the top.
• Beach Time at Perivolas (Black Beach)
  Luckily for us, it was the coldest May in recent memory so we only went for a short stroll, but the stretch along this shore is covered in beautiful black sand with loungers to rent and plenty of cafes and restaurants. It would be a great afternoon destination in the right weather. We stopped at Sea Side for lunch and found the ambiance to be very beach chic, but the food lackluster. The shrimp souffle was anything but fluffy and tasty. Not to fear, there are plenty of establishments to choose from.
• Be a Wino at Santo Winery
  For 12 euros you can share a wine tasting with 6 glasses (including Santorini’s sweet vinsanto liquer) + cheese + bread, or not. What you can’t split is the sweeping view of the caldera with Fira and Ia in the distance. There’s also a food store on premise where you can take home Santorini snacks and any of the vintages from the tasting. Since the other wineries were not yet open for the season we don’t have a basis for comparison, but Santo Winery seems to be one of the larger establishments with a view and plenty of seating indoors and out. It feels a little like Beringer Winery in Napa.
• Lunch at Papagalos
  The tomato balls were the best we had on Santorini and the shrimp saganaki was very good as well. The restaurant is raised from the main street and has a nice view of the caldera from the patio.
• Feed Your Soul at Selene in Pyrgos
  Pyrgos was worth the drive and getting lost. Just ask someone for directions if you’re not sure you’re on the right track. The turn off to Pyrgos, if you’re coming from Fira, is clearly marked, but you do end up along a stretch where all signs disappear. Don’t worry, it’s the right direction. Pyrgos is built on a hill and has pretty views of the entire island. Head to Selene in the early evening with enough time and light to see the city before settling in for dinner. Selene is a gourmet establishment so it’s a small splurge (about 40-50 euros per person without alcohol), but the French fare definitely lives up to the price.
• Cruise the Mediterranean in a Catamaran
  The 130 euros per person price tag may make you a little light-headed, but it’s well worth it if you don’t suffer too terribly from seasickness. Even if you do get seasick, it’s worth it, just stay on deck and have someone cut your pork chop. Atina booked us on the Lagoon 440 operated by www.sailingsantorini.com which includes a grilled seafood/meat/veggie lunch and transfers to/from the port. The catamaran is gleaming white and maintained with special vigilance by the crew so you can expect a very clean boat. If you bring a hat, make sure it is glued to your head.
• Visit Yiorgos at Poniris in Fira
  The ultimate jewelry shop is very close to the tram station at the very top of Fira. You’ve heard enough about our adventures with Poniris so I’ll leave it at that.
• Soak in the Sunset from Ia Castle
  www.weather.com publishes sunset times so you can time your arrival for the sun’s exit. Just remember the published sunset time is the time the sun disappears entirely, so give yourself plenty of time to get to the far end of Ia to stake out a prime spot. You’ll have plenty of company, but it’s the best spot on the island to soak in the most beautiful sunset in the world.
• Remember the Sunscreen!
  The prices for sunscreen are exorbitant (something like 20 euros), so pack plenty. Also, it can get pretty windy on the island. If you have allergies or think you may need them, your eyes and nose will thank you for bringing along Claritan and eye drops.
  

Must Nots

• See the Port at Fira
  Unless your love for donkeys overrides all, there’s really nothing to do or see down in the port. Taking the tram down/up is a tourist trap. The views are pretty, but the ride is less than 2 minutes and you can get the same or better views from the top. Before the trip, I read the donkey rides are a Must Not, and now I know why. If donkeys prove irresistible, climbing up is probably less treacherous than taking them down into the port. Tickets for the tram are one-way so you can take the tram down and the donkeys back up. Be prepared for poop.
• Have Dinner at Red Bicycle
  Red Bicycle is a well rated and recommended restaurant. Giada even visited. The restaurant’s decor is bohemian chic reminiscent of a Parisian cafe and has a beautiful view, but it’s probably a better value at lunch. For dinner, the prices are comparable to Selene, but the fare and experience is not.
• Stay in Fira
  Unless you are in Santorini for the night life, Fira feels chaotic and touristy. To be fair, we did not explore the city much. From what we did see it has a much more hurried, less vacation friendly, pace than Ia.

Maybes

• Red Beach
  We read about this beach, but since the catamaran was going that way, we decided not to visit in person. From the sea, it looks to be a small beach. To reach it you’ll have to climb over a rocky cliff, probably not difficult to do in flip flops, but not easy either. It might be worth a visit if you have the time.
• Take a Gander from Ia to Fira
  We heard the views were outstanding, so we set out from Ia prepared for a 2-3 hour walk to Fira. Unfortunately we veered from the path and ended up catching a cab instead. If you have the time and the right shoes, it’s likely an unforgettable walk/hike as you’ll be able to see the entire island from many points.

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Mykonos

Musts

• Rent a Car
  There are many rental stations around, even Hertz offices, so getting a car shouldn’t be a problem. A drivers license is needed. It’s also possible to rent ATVs and mopeds, but with the wind and sun the tiny rental cars are much more comfortable. You’ll want a zippy little ride to work on your Mykonos tan, even if for just a day.
• Hit the Beach
  All beaches are not created equal.  Our favorite beaches are Ilia, Super Paradise and Psarou. They all have loungers for rent and cafes/restaurants nearby with Super Paradise and Psarou having the best loungers. The price for loungers at Super Paradise was 12 euros/day.
• Nibble at Namma BBQ
  This looks to be a very recent addition to the food scene in Mykonos Town. It offers perfectly grilled meats and veggies, and warm pitas with different dips. The pitas are more like flat dinner rolls and pairs perfectly with the tomato chutney dip or hummus. It’s a hip place for checking out red suspenders while having a well-priced afternoon snack or light meal.
• Get Lost in Mykonos Town
  Mykonos Town was built like a labyrinth to protect against pirates. If you must, wear an eye patch while wandering the tangled streets for anything from Diesel and Juice Couture to handwoven scarfs, local beachwear and crepes.
• Dine at Avli tou Thodori
  We were feeling a little nostalgic for moussaka and shrimp saganaki and this was a wonderful place to enjoy it.  Even though we ordered Greek comfort food, this venue is not an old style taverna. The cheery lights inside and outside the glass wall gives its polished interior a welcoming feel on cold dark windy nights. On warm nights, the glass panels are folded and the restaurant is open to the beach just a few meters away.
• Meet the Gems at Poniros
  Say Hi to Fotis and Angela, and browse the stunning collection of jewels. Or better yet, spend the afternoon with them.

Must Nots

• Order the Bread and Dip at Nammos
  Our bill for the bread and dip priced at 6 euros came out to 18 euros.  That’s 6 euros per person.  Oh, and the water is 6 euros, too. The restaurant would appear to be a perfect spot to enjoy an afternoon snack and Scrabble lovers will swoon at the decor, but you may leave feeling a bit cheated… or a lot.
  

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Athens

Musts

• Flock to the Acropolis
  If there is any hesitation, just go. You won’t be disappointed by the stately ruins and epic views, even if the scaffolding makes you a bit sad. The walk can be little demanding on a hot day, so pack a bottle of water or a hat and extra deodorant for the trek up.
• Be a Tourist, Have a Kebab at Thanasis
  This is the place everyone goes for kebabs. Thanasis is known for their kebabs and you’ll get a generous serving of lamb/beef goodness on a hot pillowy pita. Warning to gyros seekers: Thanasis does not serve gyros. But it is easy to find, located just outside Monastiraki metro station at the start of Mitropoleos Street.
  
• Tend Your Sweet Tooth at Hatzis
  A whimsical and elegant bakery near the corner of Mitropoleos and Nikis Street just off Syntagma Square, you’ll be treated to a fairy array of sweets. Our favorite was the buffalo milk creme brulee called Kazan Dipi or maybe it’s called Trigona Thassalonikis. Either way, you can’t go wrong with any of the traditional sweets served here.
• See the New Acropolis Museum
  If museums are not high on your list, the entrance to the New Acropolis Museum is still worth a visit. The museum is built directly over an active excavation site. Walking over the glass panels in the courtyard, lobby and entrance allows visitors a glimpse into the ruins being restored just below. For 5 euros, you can follow the excavation inside the stunning modern building, and even see a live video demonstration of the restoration of the Careatids using a new laser technique developed by the museum.

Good to Know

• Don’t Let the Strikes Get You Down
  Strikes and protests are a regular occurrence due to Greece’s current economic crisis. They have been happening every few weeks and have been the reason for public transit outages and even flight delays. We were not discouraged to visit City Center during a planned demonstration and even after an escalated protest the day before. Armed guards were on duty in plain sight. I am not encouraging disregard of the political unrest because I was concerned about it, too. The Greeks we met, however, shrugged off the strikes and protests as a regular part of life in Athens.

My first impression of Panos? I liked him. He had warm eyes and a gentleness about him, despite his towering height. He’s gone out of his way to show his hospitality to two people he’s never met and may never meet again. While Vi and I waited at Vasilis’ mom’s lingerie shop, Panos ran off to borrow a car and deliberated intently on where he might take us to eat the best gyros Athens had to offer. When he reappeared, we climbed into a modest car for a twenty minute ride through town. With petty crime increasing during the ‘crisis,’ the car had fallen victim to an attempted heist; thus, the driver side door was jammed. I climb into the back seat, while Panos and Vi climb into the front through the passenger side door. More on the ‘crisis’ later.

We got to know Panos on our ride to dinner. He works as a film editor, working 18 hour days, juggling multiple projects, ranging from low budget films to commercials. He explained that the profession doesn’t pay well, but at least, he gets to do what he loves. His dream? Joining Vasilis in Southern California and landing a gig on a Hollywood motion picture. I hope one day it will happen for him.

At dinner, with Panos’ recommendations, we have possibly the best Greek meal we’ve had on our entire trip. Looking at the pictures below, you can see that we had a feast fit for the Gods. (All of them and their servants.) The flavors were fresh, bold, and vibrant. I’ll do my best to describe them below.

We started with hot crusty bread and olive tapenade. This was served at every table.

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Next, we had hot pitta bread, the best garlicky hummus, roasted eggplant, the herb salad with a name I can’t recall, and baked cheese.

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Believe it or not, there was more. Next was the most unusual dish for me. It was thinly sliced camel hump meat, on top of a layer of feta, and smothered in tomato sauce. Yes, I can now claim to have eaten camel. Never did I think I would be saying that. The meat is quite gamey. I was able to try it, but I can’t say that I would have it again. Try (most) everything once, right? Andrew Zimmer would be proud.

Next, came the main entrees. This juicy pork souvlakia with yogurt and tomato sauce was really good.

Wait…here it comes. Can it be? Really? GYYYRROS for our euros? The long anticipated gyro was yummy (and maybe the best in Athens) but would it be wrong to say I liked the souvlakia more?

What an obscene amount of food! Oh, but it was all so delicious. Vi and I were holding our bellies, but we were swayed and intrigued to try the tree-sap ice cream. I can’t remember the name of the sap (mastika or something?). We’re told it’s only available on 1 of the 3000 Greek islands and is used to flavor foods and to make chewing gum. On the islands, Vi and I often were given complimentary post-meal shots of this sap-flavored liquor. The ice cream tasted like vanilla with a subtle hint of sap. It was strangely almost chewy as well. As if that wasn’t enough, we were also brought a complimentary plate of house made cinnamon doughnuts drizzled with honey. Oh my. There was no doubt that my wardrobe would no longer fit when I got home. Someone, please help me.

With the obligatory food descriptions out of the way, let’s get back to our conversations with Panos. We had an interesting discussion about the ‘crisis.’ Admittedly, my knowledge of the economic collapse of Greece is nil other than the fact that I’ve heard of it. How does a European country go bankrupt? Panos was clearly disappointed and disheartened by the current state of affairs. According to him, the crisis is largely due to corrupt, irresponsible politicians that fail to implement responsible policies that would invest in the future. Their primary interest is giving the people what they want now in order to stay in office. As for the people? This seemed harsh, but Panos believes the people aspire to a lavish lifestyle without willing to work for it. Buy it on credit? Why not? You want to give me a huge loan with outrageous interest rates? Sure, where do I sign? The banks lent billions of dollars to a population that spent without any means of paying it back. The result? Massive loans that would go unpaid. Does a government bank bailout sound familiar? Geez, this sounds awfully like our own housing crisis. Another big problem is that Greece has found itself as a country with no exports. Aside from olive oil and a few other products, the country is not producing anything. Thus, the country is crippled, with a bankrupt population and government. Tourism is barely keeping them afloat. Fascinating. I’m intrigued to do my own research when I get back home.

Alas, our night with Panos and vacation in Greece ended with one spectacular meal and another friendship made. Greece is a beautiful country, with delicious foods, amazing landscapes, taunting weather Gods (apparently this is the coldest May they’ve seen in a very long time), and wonderfully warm people. My pockets are empty, my stomach is full, and my life is richer for having had such an extraordinary vacation.

Good luck to you, Greece. It was a true pleasure. May we someday meet again.

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Sent from my iPad

After a swift 35 minute flight from Mykonos to Athens (that was delayed 1 hr), Vi and I checked back into the Sofitel at the Athens Airport. We originally had booked a hotel in the center of Athens, but decided that staying at the pricey airport hotel was worth the convenience of not having to lug our baggage to and from the center of town, which would be a 30 minute trek. The Sofitel boasts 5 stars, but I must say the service here was stuffy and a bit pretentious.

We had an optimistic list of places we wanted to see on our last day in Athens, and weather.com was forecasting rain the entire day. Sigh, what does the Greek God of Weather have against 2 petite Asian girls? Have we not pumped enough euros into the ailing Greek economy? Undeterred, we asked to borrow 2 umbrellas from the concierge, a grumpy old man, who told us we can only have one and put extra emphasis on us having to return it. Really? As we left the hotel, we spotted a row of hanging umbrellas by the exit and grabbed a second one. We were certain we’d be able to outrun Grampa Grumps should the need arise!

It was almost 2 pm when we set out for the metro. Our itinerary was loosely guided by the list below and the map Angela had crafted together the night before.

1. Stop at the famous Thanasis restaurant for ‘GYYYRROS for our euros!’ 2. Visit the Acropolis (It would be criminal to leave Athens without doing so.)
3. Stop at the Hatzis Bakery, where Angela recommended that we try the trigona thessalonikis and the kazan dipi
4. Stop at the Karakoy Gulluoglu Bakery, where we would take some of their renown baklava to-go for a later snack. Here, Angela suggested we leave with the baklava, kuruk, and guruglu. Yes, that’s 2 bakeries back to back. I don’t see a problem with that, do you?
5. Stop in at the Poniros Head Quarters for a behind the scenes tour of their workshop. This is where blocks of gold and precious gems are artfully crafted into the signature Poniros designs. Fotis and Angela had told them to expect us.
6. Stop at the Attica Department store, where Vi hoped to pick up souvenirs from the Korrs counter, which is a Greek line of high-end facial and hair products. Vi came to like this line from the hair products and lotions provided during our Santorini stay.
7. Finally, locate Vasilis’ (Vi’s friend) mom’s lingerie shop, where we would meet up with Panos, Vasilis’ best friend, for dinner.

We were supposed to get through this list and meet Panos at 6 pm. Would this Olympian attempt earn us a gold metal or would we land among the silver or bronze metalists?

On the metro, Vi was accosted by this older French(?) man who excused himself for being so forward. He told her she had the most beautiful eyes, and she inspired him to write a poem. It was a bit cheesy, but romantic all the same. After Vi crushed his heart by denying to meet him for dinner or drinks, we were a very relieved that our stop had arrived, providing a welcomed escape from his googling eyes. Sigh. I simply can’t take Vi anywhere without having men fall at her feet! At the metro station, a kind (homeless?) man pointed us in the direction of our first stop after watching us orient ourselves with the map and the 4 possible metro exits.

Yay, the gyros we’ve yet to eat were within reach, and we were more than ready for lunch. Thanasis was sandwiched in a bustling alley way, among shops and restauranteurs aggressively inviting patrons into their shop. After being seated, we were puzzled to find no gyros on their menu. Hmm.. Now what? We can’t leave now, and their kabobs looked might tasty! We ended up enjoying a delicious lunch of lamb and pork kabobs, along with a tomato salad. Panos later told us that Thanasis is the best place for kababs in Athens. Yum!

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With no time to waste, we scurried towards the Acropolis! With 2 swindled umbrellas in hand, extra leggings, scarves, and jackets, we were pounded by the warmth of the sun and the beautiful blue skies as we ascended the hilltop. Behind a fluffy white cloud, I swore I saw a Greek God looking down, chuckling as sweat began to bead on our foreheads. With our layers peeled away, we oohed and awwed at the ancient monument. Where in the world did the ancient Greeks find all this marble? How on earth did they get it up here? Where did this mob of Asian tourists come from? Aaaamazing…

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The Acropolis was spectacular, but we were lured back down to earth by the pastries that awaited us. Priorities! It wasn’t too long before the pastry cases at Hatzis had won over our affection. We had no idea what trigona thessalonikis or kazan dipi were, so we simply pointed at Angela’s notes. Oh crap! A quick time check revealed it was already 5:30 pm, and we still had several stops to go before our 6 pm appointment with Panos. We took the pastries to-go and headed to the second pastry shop.

(One of the desserts (not sure which one) was this silky creme brule like dessert, made from buffalo milk. It tasted light and refreshing, which surprised us both. The other was a cream horn like dessert made with a flakey puff pastry, filled with a chocolate cream, and drizzled with honey. This one was too sweet for our taste.)

Determined to get through our list, we found the second pastry shop and left with a box of mini pastries. When we would actually have time to eat any of this was a mystery to us.

It was now almost 6 pm and meeting Panos across town simply was not going to happen. We failed at unravelling the mystery of the public pay phones and was pleasantly surprised to discover that we had access to a free wi-fi network in downtown Athens! The bandwidth was excruciatingly slow, but we eventually were able to send Panos an email, asking to meet 1 hour later.

Whew, disaster averted. The gold metal was a stretch, but the race wasn’t over yet. Poniros Workshop, here we come! On the 3rd floor an obscure office building, Vi and I found ourselves alone in a dark hallway. Feeling a bit uncertain, we were comforted to find the Poniros sign, an expansive large black door, and a single doorbell towards one end. There was nothing to do but push the button. Nothing. Push again? Silence. Thinking we’ve arrived too late and feeling a wee bit defeated, we headed back towards the elevator.

Midway down the hall, a side door suddenly swung open, and an older, casually dressed man appeared before us. Unlike the swanky door down the hall, this set of metal doors looked a bit ominous. Without a single word, the man motioned us to follow. Despite flashes of the evening news, depicting the story of how two Asian tourists seemed to have vanished into thin air, we followed like drones. We passed through a series of rooms with industrial looking equipment and metal countertops, with no other soul in sight. Perhaps this is where evidence of the crime is destroyed? Had it not been from the warmth emanating from the still silent man, I probably would have grabbed Vi and ran!

My paranoia was subsided when Anna appeared with a warm welcome, saying we must be Fotis’ friends. Wahoo! We will survive to see another day! The man turned out to be Yiogos’ and Fotis’ non-English speaking father. Hah, why didn’t I see the striking resemblance before? Anna and Mr. Poniros gave us hugs and a tour of the facilities. Mr. Poniros explained (through Anna as his interpreter) that had we arrived earlier, we would have seen their craftsmen at work. Eventually, our tour led us through that original black door (which turned out to be a double trapped door for security) and into their corporate office. Mr. Poniros got Fotis on the phone, and we chatted briefly, with Fotis and Angela also viewing us through the security camera system. Hi, guys! Our visit ended with a round of double-sided cheek kisses, and we off we went!

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By now, it was close to 7 pm, and we didn’t want to keep Panos waiting any longer. We decided to skip Attica and settled for silver. After a 10 minute cab ride, we arrived at the small lingerie shop, where Vasilis’ mom was awaiting. With open arms, she took us in, and we chatted until Panos arrived on his motorcycle. “Where to dinner?” Panos asked? Well, this was a no brainer. “GYYYRROS for our euros, please!”

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At about 9:30 pm last night, Vi and I cabbed back to the Poniros Jewelry Boutique to meet Fotis and Angela for dinner on our last night in Mykonos. Fotis was emptying the jewel cases into the safe for safe keeping, while Angela was heading down from upstairs where she and her adorable 3 year old daughter (with Shirley Temple curls) live. I was surprised to learn that Fotis, Angela, and their other two staff members work 12+ hour days, 7 days a week for roughly 7 months! The flip side is that they get the other 5 off-season months off. I personally don’t know if I’d be able to last that long, but 5 months off does sound amazing!

Before we headed out, Fotis handed us photocopies of that article I had asked for in my previous post. Can you read what it says? It’s all Greek to me. All I know is Angelina is smiling, so she must be happy with her ring, right? Who knows, maybe we’ll see it on her finger on tv one day! Vi and I were joking that it’s probably a ‘toy’ ring for her, and one that she lends to her kids for dress up at playtime.

Before I forget, I actually do have a before and after shot of my mangled ring that Angela and Fotis generously repaired for me. It’s pretty good craftsmanship if I must say so myself!

{Before – More square than round, with two cracks at the newly formed right angles}

{After – Nearly perfect! Close inspection reveals signs of previous trauma, but with it on, I can’t tell at all.}

Ok, back to dinner… Fotis recommended a local restaurant, where we would be able to get the full traditional Greek meal experience. We weaved in and out of a few alley ways until we arrived at a restaurant with an impossible name for me to pronounce. At 10 pm, it was prime dinner time here in Greece, and the restaurant was bustling with diners. We waited about 10 minutes at the bar before being seated in the quiet back room.

{With bright flood lights, this picture looks like it was taken in daylight, but it’s actually pretty dark, cold, and windy.}

For dinner, we left the ordering to Fotis, who ordered a generous spread, which we shared family style. We had wine, bread, a Greek salad, sadziki, a sausage dish, a pork dish, and a mushroom dish. For dessert, we had two plates of Greek yogurt. One was topped with delicious sweet pickled grapes with its wine-like syrup. The other dish was topped with apples, bananas, kiwi, and drizzled with honey. The meal was delicious and more than the four of us could finish.

What was more special than the food, was the conversation that flowed freely until midnight. We talked about our families and shared stories of our travels. Fotis spent a year in the Greek army, which is mandatory for the men of Greece. He had a blast, driving the fighter jet pilots around, with no ‘real world’ responsibilities. I asked about income taxes, healthcare, real estate costs, and the medium income. Taxes here seem pretty high. Their sales tax alone is currently at 16%. There is both public and private healthcare; although it seems those who can afford it, prefer the private sector. A typical 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom home without a view costs about half a million. One with a view would put you in the million dollar range. That didn’t seem outrageous, until we found out that the average income here is about $700 euros or $1000 USD a month! Note that the cost of living here is not cheap. Thus, the gap between the have and have nots here is gaping. It is not uncommon for a home to be owned and shared by multiple generations, Angela explained. Increasing civil unrest and protests in Greece are reflections of a frustrated and struggling general population.

Fotis and Angela have done quite a bit of travel (mostly for work), but have surprisingly never been to San Francisco. Fotis wants to ride the cable cars. Angela coincidentally has a good girlfriend that lives in Oakland. I’m guessing she must live in the Oakland Hills due to the expansive property that Angela described. If either one of them should find themselves in San Francisco or Los Angeles, we talked about getting together for another fabulous meal and an opportunity for us to treat them to dinner. (Fotis was very sneaky about paying the bill.) How awesome would that be to meet our Mykonos friends again?

Fotis and Angela invited us back, suggesting that we experience their summer months, when the island is transformed into a never sleeping party town. Fotis throws a huge party (300+ people; apparently, he has a large balcony) most Julys at his place, and we got the official invite should we ever decide to ‘drop’ in. Fotis, we just might take you up on that offer, but only if Angela is there rocking the night away with us!

With the exhaustion of the day wearing on our faces and the clock striking midnight, we decided to call it a night, but not before Angela drew us this elaborate map of downtown Athens.

She highlighted the Poniros Jewlery Workshop should we want a quick tour, the bakeries we must visit and which pastries to try, a cafe recommendation, and of course, the best place to get “GYYYRROS for our euros!” This was the running joke of the night, with Fotis poking fun of our mangling of the Greek language.

At last, it was time to say good night. It’s charming how life can be. Vi and I arrived in Mykonos 3 days ago, unsure if we’d come to love this island, with the surreal images of Santorini still fresh in our minds. We would have never imagined what a wonderful and unforgettable place this would come to be. Good bye, Mykonos. We’ll miss you!

With Love,
Ashley and Vi

{Scary picture, but the only one I have with all of us. I hope to Photoshop out our demon eyes when we get home.}

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This morning is our last on Mykonos. In a few weeks, will I remember the glass aquamarine waters soothing our sun-starved bodies as we lay under tiki loungers at Paradise beach? The exquisitely ordinary taste of toasted sliced bread enjoyed at Nammos in Psarou Beach for 18 euros? The playful way the Mykonos Town labyrinth traps the wind and window shoppers? The unexpected discovery of a darling woman weaving at her loom, next to which hangs a lovely black and white photo of her in youth? The grumpy old man shutting down the paparazzi and ushering us out of his picturesque bake shop? The unexpected silliness of trying on more jewelry then we’ll ever own? Last night’s most memorable traditional Greek dinner in a candlelit restaurant with two warm souls?

The simple answer is Yes.

There are over 3000 Greek Islands. We only visited 2, but our time in Mykonos and Santorini has been unforgettable. Now it is onwards to Athens where more patisseries and gems await… and hopefully not protesters. More details to come from our Reporter on the Ground, Ashley Simieng.

I think our fate was sealed when Vi fell in love with the volcanic flower, advertised in the in-flight magazine on our flight from Athens to Santorini. It was stunning in the magazine, but pictures truly cannot do it justice. What’s with girls and diamonds? I disagree that it’s our best friend. It’s more like a gravitational pull that one cannot deny. Check your science books again; I’m certain it’s in there.

This white and black diamond ring was designed by Yiorgos Poniros. We came to learn that Yiorgos and his brother Fotis are the exclusive designers of Poniros Fine Jewelers. Check out their spectacular collections at www.poniros.com. They are 3rd generation jewelers and have two boutiques, one in Santorini and one in Mykonos. They also have ‘corners’ around the world, including the United States. However, this volcanic flower can only be found in Greece.

In Santorini, Vi and I visited Poniros in Fira, where we met Yiorgos. Vi fell heads over heels in love with it, as you might have guessed from her post from Santorini titled ‘Questions.’ Yiorgos told us it was a huge compliment when Dolce (of Dolce and Gabbana) recently purchased the ring when he was in Santorini. The ring comes in two sizes, a large flower and a smaller one. The shop in Santorini only had the large one, which looked spectacular on Vi’s finger. We ‘ooohed’ and ‘ahhhed’ at the ring as you would admiring a masterpiece at a museum and went on our merry way to encounter our donkey adventures at Old Port.

During our first day in Mykonos, we ‘stumbled’ upon the second shop in Mykonos Town. Gravity I tell you! If you’ve been following our blog, you’d know that this is where we met Angela and Fotis, Yiorgos’ younger brother. We spent several hours here trying on the small and large rings, among others, including one from the same collection featuring a 10 carrat black diamond. There’s no resisting gravity.

It was such a treat to chat with Angela and Fotis as well! They are absolutely warm, friendly, wonderful friends. While Vi was deciding whether or not to take the plunge and splurge on this masterpiece, I jokingly told her if she got the big flower, I’d get the small one. It’s a stunning piece, and how better to immortalize our amazing Grecian vacation than with diamonds?! Before we knew it, gravity had planted these flowers firmly on our fingers and left a gaping hole in our pockets. As we were processing the payment, we came to learn that Angelina Jolie had also purchased this ring. (We also learned the Jolie-Pitt clan is currently constructing a home in Santorini.) Really? I love Angelina Jolie! Had I known that, I would have bought it immediately! Haha..not really, but that’s still a pretty cool fact. Angela showed us a featured newspaper article on the Poniros designs, which showcased both Dolce and Angelina as having purchased the ring. I couldn’t help but ask for a copy. Common, would anyone believe me otherwise?

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Vi’s ring was resized within an hour (wow, talk about quick service), while mine had to be custom made back in their workshop in Athens. At a size 2 1/4, it was impossible to re-size the ring without destroying its integrity. Mine would be ready to be picked up at their Mykonos boutique in two days.

I never did blog about how my peridot ring got crushed in Santorini, did I? It was probably because I was so sad about it. It was the first ring that my husband gifted me. It got caught between the doorframe and door knob of our room and bent into the shape of a square. I lost 2 pave diamonds in the catastrophe and had to painfully wiggle it off my finger. I wish I had taken a picture of the deformed ring to show you. In any case, I’m telling you this because while I was recanting the story to Fotis and Angela, they asked if I would be willing to leave my ring with them, as they’d like to see if they could fix it. Guess what? The saved my ring! It was the sweetest thing and the best gift I could have received. Angela and Fotis, if you’re reading this blog, ‘Thank you so much!’

During our second day in Mykonos, Vi and I dropped off her ring for an adjustment as it felt a bit snug. We couldn’t help but stay and chat with Angela and Fotis before heading out for our tour of the Mykonos beaches.

After lunch today, which is our third day in Mykonos, we stopped by the shop one final time to pick up both of our flower rings (and the peridot one they saved). Our rings fit perfectly! We couldn’t adore them more. After spending another two hours chatting with Angela and Fotis, we left with our volcanic flowers, 2 new Facebook friends, and a date to meet for dinner tonight.

What a wonderful and unique experience this has been. Here in Mykonos, we’ve acquired 2 beautiful pieces of jewelry, memories that will last a lifetime, and two amazing friends that we hope to someday meet again. Now, you have the complete story of how the volcanic flowers of Greece came to be found in California.

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Psarou Beach

A luxurious and swanky beach. This is certainly where you might spot some vacationing celebrities. The beach side restaurant Nammos is trendy and upscale, and absurdly overpriced. Vi and I visited this beach at about 4 pm. Although not hungry, we decided we order a light appetizer so that we can sit and enjoy the panoramic views of the crystal blue waters. We ordered toast and spreads at $6 euros. When asked if we’d like some water, we said yes. We were presented with about 6 slices of toasted wheat bread drizzled with olive oil. It came with a tiny portion of olive tapenade and roasted pepper spread. The bill? $6 euros for the bottle of still water (apparently imported from France) and $12 euros for 6 slices of bread. We felt ripped off as the menu did not say $6 euros per person. Thus, the total was $18 euros or roughly $26 US dollars for toast and water. Hmmmph!!!

(Sorry, no pix. I forget my iPhone in the car. Vi took some on her fancy camera.)

Quick summary – think the W Hotel with Ritz Carlton prices

Super Paradise Beach

Beautiful beach set in a small cove. The umbrellas and khaki lounge chairs are stylish and comfy. Vi and I had lunch delivered beachside here. We munched on yummy baguette sandwiches (I had smoked salmon and Vi had prosciutto) at a reasonable price of $7 euros a piece. This beach is trendy without being pretentious. Like!

Quick summary -think a nice secluded boutique hotel, maybe like the L’Auberge in Del Mar, where Vi frequently stays for work

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Paradise Beach

This beach apparently is known to be the biggest party beach; although it was pretty empty at this time of year. Immediately upon arrival, it felt like a cheap, rundown joint on fraternity row. I can imagine this beach filled with drunken youth, doing lord knows what with each other, and waking up with massive hang overs with someone else’s clothes on. Sigh.. Perhaps our severe allergic reaction to this beach is reflective of our younger, party days gone by.

Quick summary – think motel 7, where you feel like you need to be de-sanitized before stepping into your house

Plati Yialos Beach

Vi and I went to this beach for dinner, where we dined at Avli Tou Thodori. It was a beautiful restaurant, surrounded with glass walls at night for warmth, yet providing the illusion of dining right on the beach. This restaurant is gorgeous, with a casual yet elegant ambiance. The food is delicious and surprisingly very reasonable. The beach vibe is similar to Super Paradise Beach, but bigger and less intimate.

Quick Summary – think a nice boutique hotel, nestled among others, on a quaint but busy strip, maybe like the Canary in Santa Barbara that Vi and I visited about a month ago

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(No pix of the beach as it was dark and cold outside.)

Elia Beach

This beach looks beautiful and secluded. Only, it wasn’t quite ready for the season. A large tractor (to the right of the pix below) was leveling the sand when we arrived. This might fall somewhere between Psarou and Super Paradise Beach.

Quick Summary – Hmm.. Think the Sofitel maybe?

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Vi and I slept in the latest today and didn’t step out for breakfast until 10 am. The now spoiled girls that we are, we noted how we missed the luxury of wi-fi access and the simple pleasure of noshing on breakfast in our pjs.

The dining room in which breakfast was served is charming, with panoramic ocean views. The breakfast selection was expansive, and eggs, bacon, and sausages made a breakfast appearance for the first time. Aside from the Greek yogurt with honey, my favorite was the leek pie. Mmmm…

After breakfast, we took a quick stroll into Mykonos Town for some adjustments to yesterday’s purchases and got some beach recommendations from Angela. We also said hello to Fotis. They are making us some dinner reservations for our last night tomorrow. I wonder where it will be.

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Back at the hotel, we picked up a tiny Nissan car rental and headed out to discover the beaches of Mykonos. We threw together a bag of beach necessities, but held out very little hope of basking in the sun with the winds still blowing strong. We were, however, very grateful for the clear blue skies when weather.com had forecasted rain just two days ago.

The roads in Mykonos were much easier to drive than the narrow and desperately winding roads of Santorini. The car actually felt like it had some power behind it too. Driving is much more pleasant when you’re not feeling like the next gust of wind will sweep you and your smart car over the cliffs and into the sea below. Our first stop was Elia Beach, which was pretty, minus the giant tracker leveling the sands and the taunting winds that followed us from Santorini. Boo… no beach lounging here. Vi and I hopped back into our trusty Nissan and drove to Super Paradise Beach. Paradise Beach exists here too, but hey, if you got to choose between Paradise and Super Paradise, wouldn’t you super size it too?

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Super Paradise Beach is beautiful, with its picturesque straw umbrellas and aqua-blue waters. It’s in a little cove, and while it’s a bit breezy, it is actually pleasant enough to do the beach thing. Yay! I’m staring at the memorizing blue waters now, relaxed on a comfy beach lounger and shaded by our straw umbrella.

Miss Vi has nodded off in her cute white and black bikini, hoping to leave with a Mykonos tan. (Have you noticed that she likes to sleep a lot? Hehe.. I’m glad she’s getting her hard earned R&R.). Would it be criminal for me to say that I need to get some fatter friends? Shorter too while I’m at it! That way, I can at least feel just a tad bit thinner and a wee bit taller. All kidding aside, Mykonos and Super Paradise suits us just fine today. Life is (still) good.

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Today, Vi and I said our farewells to Santorini and boarded the ‘Flying Cat’ for a 2.5 hour voyage to the island of Mykonos. Upon the advice of Tram, we sprang for business class and were glad we did. The lower deck was crowded and chaotic, with luggage piled high along the walls. Upstairs, there was plenty of space, tables, and serenity. Vi took a nap, while I occupied myself with Angry Birds and an outdated playlist on my iPad. I love this thing.

At the port, Antonio greeted us and drove us to our boutique hotel just outside Mykonos Town. The hotel is cute, with a modern country chic feel to it. Honestly, after our spoiled bed and breakfast treatment and the spectacular landscapes of Santorini, our first impression of Mykonos is slightly underwhelming. To be fair, we’ve only been here a few hours and are hopeful this island will find a place in our hearts.

Our view is pretty nice, don’t you think?

The weather today was chilly with the passing winds and pleasantly warm when the winds subsided. After settling in, we walked into Mykonos town to discover a labyrinth of small shops, restaurants, and faux-painted cobblestone paths. We also stumbled upon the famous windmills.

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At about 4 pm, I decided warm pita bread and hummus would make a really great snack. Surprisingly, we’ve yet to eat hummus in Greece. It was shockingly difficult to find hummus on the menus here. French fries and pizza were more readily found. At last, we found this cute casual restaurant serving ‘Mykonos BBQ,’ which is probably more accurately described as a grill. This fit the bill perfectly! The hummus was delicious, as were the grilled tomatoes, smoked eggplant spread, and the Santorini tomato chutney.

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Carbed up and re-energized, Vi and I set out to discover the rest of Mykonos Town. We didn’t get very far before spending the next few hours making new friends at an exquisite boutique. Here we enjoyed some wine and conversation with Angela, a warm and vibrant Greek-Australian, and her business partner Fotis. We also picked up some souvenirs here that I promise will be remembered for a lifetime, maybe even for generations to come. Vi and I were now giddy (perhaps also a wee bit crazy) and among a circle of vacationers with fabulous taste, if I must say so myself! According to a newspaper spread that was shared after our purchases were made, D&G and Miss Jolie are now within 2 degrees of separation. That’s kind of amusing.

Happy and a bit delirious, we took a cab back to our hotel at about 9 pm. It’s awfully cold to be wandering around any longer. We’ll be grabbing a bite at the hotel in a bit, which will be the perfect ending to this slightly underwhelming and very overwhelming day.

{Dinner at the Hotel}

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